PaulK

IMO sand cement is always the best way to go. If it were me i would do this.. NB dont use neat PVA !! dilute it with water so it looks like milk. PVA walls as its going tacky, PVA Second Coat use a 4:1 mix (Fist Coat) Key the surface horizontally Allow to Set Wet 1st coat Render down use a 3:1 Mix (Second Coat) Reason i would use 2 mixes is that for the first coat, a 3:1 wont have as much suction as a 4:1 its still a good strong mix You could well use 4:1 for the second coat also your call. You can easaily make a little keyer take a bit of 2x2 tack in some narrow gauge nails 5 or 6 then cut

Hi there So on some sections the fixing is really solid and on others you dril a hole and your fixing wont hold or the fixing is insufficient. You could be fixing in to an expanded concrete block, (is it "overly easy" to drill in to) really secure fixings in this type of block are a bit tricky, if this is the case and you want a fixing that will never move again you could try getting some "Epoxy Resin" from your local builders merchants. Its like a treacle which you inject in to the hole you have made for the rawlplug then when its still soft you insert your rawlplug, when the resin sets it is

Hi All new here, Just a quick question hope someone can help. We have an old cottage, and the walls are all over the place...! Having hacked the bathroom back to brickwork, and applied a LOT of bonding (I should have rendered it out a little first) Anyway having now straightened the walls out, question is this. Can I Tile on to the Bonding coat or must I plaster....? P

I have always packed the RSJ out with 4x2 (tightly wedging it in) so it protrudes proud of the RSJ edges. Then fixed Plasterboard in to this with plasterboard screws, None of mine have moved yet...! P