JohnKay

Hi Mark

I think you may find that the mould has eaten into the fibres, and cannot be removed removed. I can only suggest having a word with a local upholstery cleaning contractor, and see what they think.

From your previous post on protecting items, I was assuming that you were referring to the usual items that one would store in a garage, Bikes, lawn mowers, garden tools, etc. Not items that can absorb moisture.

Please note that mould can be a health risk, especially if used as a bed in the future.  

Hi, Mark

I wouldn't attempt it, if you put clothes into a damp environment they will absorb moisture however you try to protect them. Totally sealed bags are a possibility, but I wouldn't trust it unless for a very short time. 

Hi Mark

I take it the garage is not in the best of health. I would suggest some timbers on the floor to keep items up off the damp concrete. Cover everything with a large tarpaulin. Any metal items could be treated with a little WD40 or similar, in the hope of keeping rust away. Check frequently.

I can't believe I did that - just wrote a post, and lost it - never mind !

I was saying, Mark, that this is not a subject I've ever had to deal with, so not much help. A lot is going to depend on the construction of the flat, what materials are transmitting the sound, and what the sound is.

I see there are advertisers on this site for specialist products. Have a click - might be of help. 

Hi Mark

As you say, a real problem this time of year. The fact is, that if as bad as you say, you have to deal with the cause. things like drying washing indoors, cooking with no extractor fan, etc. can put so much moisture in the air that one quick shower, and there's mould everywhere. Have you any extract fans ? what insulation do you have ? Is the heating sufficient ?

Yes there are anti fungal paints, and paint additives, but, in a case as bad as this, there's very little chance of any improvement. It's down to the cause, I'm afraid. 

Rich, can you advise v1no please.

As far as I can remember, the Elite is pretty standard, with Dudley components, is yours a side entry ? If so, the Torbeck  is available in that version, even from Wickes.

If your cistern is anything out of the ordinary,  why not post a photo with the lid off.

Hi

How do you fancy replacing that valve ?  I expect that if the existing valve was rotated very slightly allowing the float to clear, the problem would be solved. Problem is, that it may not be a good idea to disturb the joints. So if you are going to disturb, fit a nice new valve - Torbeck valves are a good choice. The bottom entry versions are available with adjustable hight, so can fit just about any toilet. 

Hi v1no

Sorry to hear your problem, it's such a shame these people are behaving in such a way that gives the whole trade a bad name.

I can only suggest trying British Gas, and hope they don't let you down.

Please let us know how you get on.

Sorry I didn't get back to you last week.

As I've said, if it's suspect, get rid of it. You take the risk of doing loads of hard work on a decorating project, only to have it ruined by dodgy materials.

It's the same as bad, or non existent preparation. I've known of cases where the paintwork has been so bad that the only way has been replacement of the doors and architraves, due it not being practical to strip the defective paint. 

Hi, 

Unopened oil based should be perfectly OK for a good few years. Any old stuff that's been opened, and part used should be treated with suspicion, if it doesn't seem right, it's best got rid of.

With water based paint such as emulsion, the storage is important. If it's been in a shed or garage, and exposed to frost, it will be damaged, and should not be used.

Another point with water based that's been stored is if in a metal tin, it's possible to get a pin hole rusted through from the inside - Not pleasant, they only seem to leak when picked up ! 

Hi,

It depends what type of paint it is, hopefully it's emulsion paint that, in most cases can be removed with methylated spirit. Try rubbing using one of those green Scotchbright  pads. Take care though - very flammable !

Any other paint could be another matter. A chemical paint remover is bound to damage the tiles, so it could just be down to hard work.

I'm told that ammonia is good for cleaning lino tiles, but I've not tried it myself, (don't think I could stand the smell)

Let's know how you get on. 

Hi giraffe76,

If you mean black spots on paper, as opposed to a vinyl wall covering, then I'm afraid that the mould will have penetrated the paper. The only way is to remove the cause of the mould, it could be due to condensation, or another damp problem. Then stripping the paper, treating with a fungicide, and redecorating.

So, have you any indication of the cause ?

Hi, giraffe76

If the existing paint is sound, all you need to do is make sure it's clean, and rub it down with 120 grade abrasive paper and dust off. Either apply an undercoat, then gloss, or a one coat gloss if you prefer. If there's a colour change, go for undercoat and gloss.

Removal of old paint is something to avoid, unless you really have to do it.

Hi all,

It's been a good while since anything was posted on this forum. So why not let us know about the DIY jobs you've been doing in the last few months.

How about discussing the jobs you enjoy doing, and those you just hate, even just to say hello.

I frequently check for any new posts, I'm sure others do too. It seems a shame nothing is happening. Rich has created a nice site here, so let's hear from you.  

I'm sure everyone is familiar with those little plastic clips with hardened steel pins. What doesn't seem common knowledge, is that there are available tiny plastic plugs for use in hard materials, or very soft like plasterboard. 

Trying to hammer those pins into a solid wall can be a nightmare. Using the plugs can make the job easier. They are just like common wall plugs, but smaller, about 16mm long, and need a 5mm drill bit. The only ones I've come across are made by Tower. It helps to stick a bit of tape on the drill to mark the depth. Pop in the plug, and tap the clip home.

Now here's a tip - Those little plugs have another use. They can also be used for fixing the little brass picture hooks that also have a hardened pin. saves a lit of bent fixing pins !  Just drill the wall slightly on the angle to match the clip.

Always use eye protection with hardened pins, they can snap off and go flying.

If you've got a lot of material to cut, can I recommend getting a track guided plunge saw. The accuracy is superb, just position the track on the cut line, and away you go. there's not even any need to clamp down the track in most cases. As the depth of cut can be set with great accuracy, you could even make a cut with the material lying on a bit of old carpet. It can even be used to trim a door. Downside being the damage to the piggy bank !

I've used a system with a track guided saw for what must be about 20 years now. I hardly ever use a conventional circular saw, in my opinion, one of the most dangerous tools you can use, as they can so easily kick back if the blade binds at all. Even worse with me, being left handed. If you do use one, get a guide clamp, or arrange some sort of guide, both to obtain some accuracy, and to avoid kick back.

So if that piggy bank is up to it, all the major power tool makers supply plunge saws, have a look ! 

Any comments ?

It's always the same, after every painting job there's some left in the can - trouble is, it has to be put away somewhere. 

So here's a few tips.

With oil based paint, it's best away from the home, in a shed or garage if at all possible due to the risk of fire. Never in a loft, the heat in summer could burst the lid off.

With water based paint, Emulsions etc. these should never be stored anywhere where they could freeze. As it states on the can 'protect from frost' A can that has been frozen, and thawed out will probably be permanently damaged. This type is not a fire risk though, but again not in a loft.

If you need to thin an emulsion paint, for a mist coat, or to ease application a little, and you intend keeping the left-overs, thin it's a good idea to use distilled water. The reason being that tap water is not pure, containing bacteria and other nasties, normally harmless, but kept for a while in a warm place can be a problem.

Another problem with water based paint in a metal can, is that the can can develop a rust patch internally. Not nice to pick up a can that looks perfectly sound and then find it leaking. If it ever happens, turn it upside down straight away. 

If left-over paint is full of bits of skin, or those little bits that drop off the lid, the old trick is to strain it through an old pair of tights.

Lastly, if you're having a clear out, please don't put paint in the bin - a number of times I've seen paint dripping out of a dust cart, and leaving a trail all down the road. 

Hi Evie,

You've come to the right place, Rich has created a nice friendly site here, and although there's not much going on right now, I'm sure we can help with any queries you may have. 

Look forward to hearing from you. 

Nice to hear from you Rich.

Yes, people do, it's one of the most common queries on other sites. It often goes like "I've tried to replace the hall light fitting, I've taken off the ceiling rose, and now there's seven wires coming out, there's three red, and four blacks. I get 230 volts on one red, and nothing on" etc.

This also crops up with heating control circuits, thermostats, motorised valves, and programmers. Out comes the screwdriver, and we have a dangerous situation.

I spent many years fault finding, and I admit most of it was done live, it's quick and easy, but only if you know what you are doing !

There's other problems that, with using a meter cause problems. It's easy for someone to think that they can be used to test for safety - they can't, the meter for that is a very accurate instrument with a price tag to match. 

Dealing with AC is another problem, people expect it to behave in exactly the same way as DC - it doesn't, and there's many cases where a meter can cause confusion.

So, anyone intending any electrical work, please do your homework first. Take your time, think before doing anything, and make absolutely sure you are safe.

SWITCH OFF FIRST. 

This is a nice site Rich, hope to see a bit more action soon.

I often come across cases of someone trying to trace a fault on a live supply using a neon screwdriver, or a cheap multimeter. The dangers may not be obvious. Neon screwdrivers tend to be open to abuse, and can easily be damaged, there's only a tiny resistor between you and 230 volts .

In my opinion Most multimeters available in DIY stores are of very poor quality, with leads and probes that are just not up to the job. Great for testing batteries or light bulbs, or on the car, but at 230 volts - not so safe. I've seen one recently that had brittle plastic handles on the probes, if they had been cracked in any way, that meter could be lethal.

If you buy a meter, please don't go for a cheapie. you get what you pay for !  For DIY use some of the meters by Rapitest are not too bad, remember it's the leads that you have to handle, and if you put them across 230 volts holding one in each hand, a faulty lead is the last thing you need.With professional meters, the leads have to comply with very strict standards, not so with those on the DIY market, so take care.

One very important point when using a meter is if there is a fault on the neutral, (and that's just as likely as on the line) the meter will show zero volts, but the circuit could still be at 230 volts, again take care.

The one thing I would recommend, is a Volt Stick, Pocket Voltage Indicator, or what ever they get called, is a safe way of testing as there is no contact with the conductor. If you've not come across one, take a look at something like catalogue no. 53855 on the Screwfix site. These are available in most electrical outlets. Once you've used one, the neon screwdriver could end up in the bin !  

Lastly, please try not to live test if at all possible, and think before you touch anything. 

Hi googley

You've posted under 'website problems' Rich may wish to move this.

I can only assume the washer is really an 'o' ring.

If you go to a plumbers merchant, not a DIY store, with the old ring I'm sure they will be able to replace it for you.

The only other option would be to contact Triton directly. 

Try looking for - Pressworks, or metal pressings.

there's one place I know of, Claridge One-stop engineering, But they're no where near Manchester.

I'm sure that if you call into a small local engineering company, they would know of a specialist near you, as they may use them from time to time.

Could be wrong, but I don't think there's a facility for PM's on this forum, and wouldn't want to do anything against the rules !

I really can't think of the name you're looking for, but I do know this could be a mighty expensive thing, as all the machines have to be made for the purpose, with moulds and dies made for that particular job. So unless you need a few thousand components !!!

What is it you want to produce ? I may be able to come up with something.