v1no

The bulb in one of the bathroom ceiling light has recently fused. I had to access the interior of the light to get the old bulb out and replace it with a new one. Until now I have not managed to Open the lower part of the unit. Hope I can upload a photo of the unit.

In the above context I would like to point out that I could not move the part where the glass is sited. It simply will not move. clockwise or anticlockwise. I could not figure out if there is a trick of some sort that I am not aware of. Please help with some advise. Thank you in advance.

I have managed to solve the problem by replacing the ball valve system to inverted cup float controlled valve system. Sorry that I could not manage to comply with John Kay's request. The photo could not be uploaded because of security restrictions and not because of my ineptitude. 

I have taken a photo of the cistern. However I haven't been able to upload it.

If you could please give me some guidance as to how to do this I would be very grateful as my computer skills are not good.

I have looked up the internet. The Torbeck valve wont be suitable for the type of cistern and the flushing system Mine is Dauntless Elite duo flush. 

The toilet cistern in the cloakroom has a float valve which sticks to the wall of the cistern as the float rises during the filling up stage. This causes overflow. The only way to prevent this for me, is to use a stick to lift the float, after water reached a safe level. This is quite annoying. Is there an alternative which might solve the problem without having to use the float and the float arm? Any suggestion? Thanks.

Why is it so difficult to get  someone to get my fire serviced? I have tried to contact a few. Its always the same story: either  I cannot get any one on the phone or leaving a message and yet there is no feedback. Sometime , when I get a guy on his mobile and fix an appointment, I wait expecting this guy to turn up only to get myself worked up for such irresponsible behaviour.  Any advice  please.  

By the way these were Gas Safe engineers.

Hi!

I looked up the related paperwork. It appeared that I was covered for a year. I rang up and got an appointment a week later.

Meanwhile the shower was out of use for the time.

The engineer appeared on the date as promised. I went up to show what the problem was. I pulled the ceiling cord. The power came on. I pressed the switch on the shower. Hey presto, there was water.coming through. As it was working the engineer could not proceed any further, filled up his paperwork and asked to fix another appointment when there is further complications..

About a year ago we got a new Worcester Greenstar Condensation Boiler installed.

I was informed that this is supposed to be very efficient.

What I have noticed so far is that when the hot water tap is open the boiler goes on full blast for about 1 minute and still there is no hot water on tap. Most times I turn the tap for a few seconds ( turn on and off immediately),the boiler would still go on full blast for a minute with all the emanating steam .

Is this what is 'efficiency at its best' ?

These days I do not use the hot water tap most of the time.

This afternoon the electric shower suddenly stopped working. The pull cord light on the ceiling is still on. The indicator light for the shower unit is also on.. However on pressing the switch on the shower there is no flow of water.. Could anyone please help with some suggestions to get rid of the problem?

A few weeks back I wrote about a dripping tap in the kitchen. Until now there is no feedback. So I decided to write

another version to highlight my problem.

I know this much that I have to:

1. turn off the feeder stopcock

2. open all taps to drain the water off

before getting on with undoing the parts of the mixer tap.

But what I need to know if I have to switch off the central heating boiler at the mains and drain the

residual water from the boiler as well.

Any suggestions?

Thanks in advance

Two years back I had to replace the two glands to stop dripping. It did work, but recently it is about to start dripping although not serious yet,I would like to have another go. I am a bit apprehensive to start with.

Recently I have got a new Worcester greenstar boiler fitted.

I know this much that I have to close the feeder tap in the ground floor before opening all the taps to drain the water.

before getting on to undo the tap. Could someone tell me if I could go ahead with the job without switching off the boiler at the mains.Do I have to drain off the boiler as well(I hope not)?

Last year round about this time I got a new Worcester Greenstat condensation bolier installed by a gas safe engineer.

One of the radiators in the ground floor was cold. I bleeded the radiator and followed the instructions suggested in another forum member's topic. It worked to some extent. For last three months this radiator and another one in the ground floor stopped working. I could not bleed the radiators this time, because water spurts out as soon as the bleed valve is open.

This brings me to ask if itis the size of the boiler that might have something to do with it. What is the suitable

size of the boiler for a detached two storey house with 10 radiators?

Nick's problem is exactly the same as what I am facing now. Since Nick posted his problem in November, CDS wrote his suggestions to get rid of the problem. I am interested to hear from Nick if any imrovement has been achieved since.

Thanks

v1no