Stephen

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About Stephen

  • Rank
    Member
  • Birthday 04/10/1954

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Newcastle
  • Interests
    My interests are mainly anything to do with DIY including fish pond, gardening, painting and decorating, heating and plumbing and anything else that I can turn my hand to.
  • Expertise
    I'm a DIY Expert
  1. Hi Chris, You shouldn't have any problems. Can't wait to hear about the outcome. Good luck.
  2. Sorry Chris, I forgot to say. Before you put the new sealant on, you must make sure that area you are going to re-seal is perfectly dry. Stephen.
  3. Hi Chris, In answer to your question, 'yes' it is a simple answer of removing the old sealant and replace with new. There best way I have found to remove the old sealant is to use a Stanley knife, you then use a 'sealant remover' from B & Q or somewhere similar just to clean off any remaining sealant. Most DIY shops sell it. You must make sure that all of the old sealant is removed or it could cause problems when putting the new sealant on. Concerning the new sealant, DONOT go for the cheapest, basically the more you pay, the better the quality, and the longer it will last. Make sure that
  4. I think the best advice would be to get an engineer to look at it. It should take the weight, but I don't think anyone is likely to give you a definitive yes or no.
  5. Not very easy to advise on this one without a picture or two. It might be possible to patch repair if the problems aren't too bad.
  6. It sounds to me like you have got a loose wire somewhere along the way. check the wiring in both switches. I am pretty certain that you will find a loose one.
  7. I have got a problem with one of my windows. It measures 3ft x 3ft and it is fitted in a solid fitting. I want to double glaze but cannot afford it. I have thought of a cheaper option but I don't know if i will work. This is my plan: Put some draught excluder all the way around the frame, get another piece of glass cut and fix it in place against the draught excluder and secure in place with wooden battens and paint them. This will give me a 20 mil gap between the pains. Has anyone got any other ideas before I have a go at doing this? I would love to read any constructive ideas. Stephen
  8. A fresh new site that I have found when searching is http://www.righttrader.com - It looks like a fairly new site and they are out to impress people. It costs nothing to look around.
  9. Hi Linux, You could try staining them followed by a good polishing but I don't think you will cover them completely. It would certainly make them look better though.
  10. Hi Ray, Before you paint your chipboard you need to seal it first to prevent your paint from being absorbed by the chipboard. You can buy 'MDF primer' from B & Q. I have used it on all various types of wood and it has never let me down yet.
  11. I agree with Woody about bathroom floor heating, it would work, but depending on what type of floor you have it can be expensive to install.
  12. Hi Marc, As a tradesman myself I have always tried to involve the customer as much as possible. I find it helps to put their minds at rest and it saves any misunderstandings from occurring. Over the last 20+ years in the DIY trade i think building up a good, friendly atmosphere is good for both the customer and the tradesman. That has always been my policy.

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