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Showing content with the highest reputation since 07/29/2009 in all areas

  1. An electrician meditating, Ohm...
    1 point
  2. I've just published a book on DIY. It's blank and comes with a free pen.
    1 point
  3. Hi This happens time after time, intermitant faults are allways the worse. Trouble is, it makes you feel such a fool. Lets hope it keeps on working OK.
    1 point
  4. Hi All Am hoping to install a roof drain in a newly covered felt flat roof. this is due to an area that ponds. I would like to use a normal rubber outlet cut through the deck and seal with cold applied sealer such as liquid rubber. Anyone done anything similar? Which product, method etc.? Thanks in advance
    1 point
  5. There used to be a real problem with putting Thermostatic Radiators Valves (TRV’s) on the return. As the TRV just opening or closing the dynamics of the flow would cause the valve to snap shut and then open repeatedly, this sounded like a machine gun. Most TRV’s are now bi-directional (as yours is) that is they can be fitted on the flow or the return. In your case pipe the radiator as is and put the TRV on the side with the best air flow.
    1 point
  6. just to add to diy guy's comments... a few drops of washing up liquid in the mix works as a poor man's plasticiser. mortar should never be stronger than the substrate you are working with... in other words when movement occurs due to changes in temperature or moisture the mortar should give a bit instead of cracking the brick, tile, etc., or simply becoming detached. 4:1 represents a strong mortar for best brick, again depending what sand is used (using a softer or finer sand tends to produce a stronger mortar but a more pleasing pointing). softer or weaker substrate would need a weaker ratio
    -1 points
  7. if your roof is felted under the tiles the polyeurethane foam or whatever they spray on cannot hope to bond the tiles together unless they cut or tear away the felt first... this could then be a good way of stabilising a failing roof - as far as the bits between the rafters is concerned! any leaks above the timbers is unlikely to be sealed leaving the timber open to attack by nasties. a few soffit vents are unlikely to help. i think this process is best suited to insulating steel based industrial type roofs and kept away from timber and tiles (probably how they have remained in business 40 yea
    -1 points



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