Rich

My loft ladder was from a builders merchants for £89.00 and had a local builder fit it.

If your using your loft just for storage, then I wouldnt even waste money on plasterboard at all, and if you do put the foil bubble wrap on your walls, make sure you get the breathable stuff, NOT the normal stuff if your going to stick it straight onto the walls. The normal stuff is for stapling to the underside of your rafters where there is already plenty of ventilation between the tiles/slates. Remember, its only plastic and foil, so if it cant breathe, then neither can whatever you stick it to if its solid (Like a brick wall) and you wouldnt want any condensation on the back of the plaster

Hiya Verne Its readily available in most DIY stores, I use it to make wing bags for model RC planes to prevent my wings getting popped when moving them from garage>car>airfield and back again... It comes in roll form and is completely flexible, you can bend it, fold it, duck-tape it together, its great stuff... Comes in breathable and non-breathable formats, with the breathable stuff costing a bit more.. My local Focus sell it in rolls costing

No, I wouldnt use MDF at all, its far heavier than needs be and absorbs water/moisture like a sponge if it gets wet (Leak in the roof)??? Why not just line the walls with foil backed bubble wrap which will be 100x easier to put up, breathes, and is a far better insulation barrier too. You can apply it to the walls with spots of "No-more-nails" and be done fairly quickly, and only need a stanley knife.

Hi Dan When you say box the walls off, could you elaborate a little? Funny thing as I'm doing exactly the same thing at the moment, finishing the insulation, and putting down chipboard loft boards for storage.. On the walls, you will need to make sure anything you put on them can breath.

Got something that isnt a ".bmp" file, like maybe a jpg straight from the camera?

Hi Mate Do you have a picture of your affected roof area?

Well Geoff, as your already from that company, why dont you tell us instead of trying to sneak a link in under false pretences? Nothing worse than a tradesman trying to deceive people..... Is this how cooleasy operate? Sneeky and deceptive?

No, sorry, thats 1000 a day under normal brick laying circumstances, such as walls. Doing peirs on his own, and having no labourer, around 500 a day would not be asking a lot.

Hey TomTom A good brickie should be able to lay 1000+ bricks a day, but thats with a labourer. If he has to keep stopping to mix up more muck, then you might only be looking at half that figure. So possibly, 5 peirs a day as a rough guess I'd say, or rent a mixer for

Hiya Novice, welcome to the website When you say "put it onto secret", can you elaborate as that looks like a possible spelling mistake, but I'm not sure what of??? Engineered oak flooring is plywood backed and you should find that the plywood backing is in strips, allowing it to expand and contract without pushing up the floorboards when it does, so as long as you dont restrict the movement of the plywood under the floor, preventing it from doing what it does naturally, you should be fine. One thing to consider is, the harder the floor is underneath, the more the oak flooring will take the b

Hi Jezb Do you possibly mean under-floor heating with ceramic tiles on top? (Like in a bathroom or kitchen) What exactly is the Vinyl for, and what type? Got any pictures of what your up-to?

Thats a great finish eddie, shame its not in the UK, otherwise we could all swing by for a barbecue

lol, the CoW ????

Hi there Pricing your work can be fairly easy, you can either do it several ways, depending on the job in hand... Day rate, per job or per 1000 bricks laid for example... If your building a garden wall and you know it 12m long, double skin, 10 courses high, you know its going to be around 1000 bricks, or if your quick, 2 days work, so you can either quote the job as x days work + materials, or if its a mega complex job that might take ages you could quote per 1000 bricks laid or a day rate (handy if you have a client that keeps changing their mind all the time) Have you worked as a bricky befo

WOW, its hard to believe this was done by the same person.... Did you really do this? What happened to the pointing on the inside?

Hi Eddie Well, as long as your using some sort of trowels at least? I actually wasnt kidding about pulling it down through, you wont be able to do anything with the muck once it has set, except scrape bits off, but that will leave staining and possibly damage the bricks. Oh, and dont underestimate yourself too, I repair computers and laptops, build and maintain websites and run a national UK web hosting company, but was still able to build a wall, so dont knock your own ability, you can easily knock up a barbecue, but as with all things, a little practice is required.. The entire point of doin

Hey Eddie Not a bad first attempt, just a little work on the pointing and the muck mix and you will be all set. (pun pun) Seriously though, will this all be visible permanently or will it be hidden? I would seriously advise though that its well worth practicing, even consider pulling it down carefully and having another bash at it... Put the muck on the bricks at 45 degree angles, scraping the muck onto the 4 edges of the bricks side (1 side only) so that you can gently place the brick down onto the muck bed laid out, and tap it into place until the muck is not quite "ozzing" out of the joins,

There are lots of different types of sand to use, some for bricklaying, some for renderingetc etc.. Like I said, you dont need lime, your not building a house so its nothing really to worry about. Your problem is not how quickly the muck sets, but the fact that it doesnt hold anything together when it does. Ditch the lime and go with a 4-1 mix sand/cement. General building sand should be ok for this little job, nothing too fine.

Hi Eddie Your mix is too weak. What sand are you using too? You dont need lime either, its only a barbecue...

It looks fine, but I really would ask why the roof has a dent in it allowing water to just sit there? That should have been remedied. I hope that isnt silicon sealant thats holding the flashings in place too?

Hiya James What is it your surprised about exactly? What makes you think it could be dubious?

Frapper Nice of you to drop in just to drop that link, dont you ever take the time to introduce yourself at all, wherever you go in life or do you just plaster adverts in peoples faces everywhere you go?

Hi Piper Yellow = Earth > Goes to > Green/yellow = Earth Blue = Neutral > Goes to > Black = Neutral and obviously, the red is live and goes to red.

Hey Verne You say you avoided chipboard or MDF, but what exactly did you use in the end for the boarding?